Few people have done more to shape how Australians actually cook Italian at home than Julia Busuttil Nishimura. Ostro was the start of it; several books on, the register has not changed, unhurried, seasonal, and entirely uninterested in showing off.

She travels north to cook a long-table lunch at Sun Ranch’s Field House, with the menu drawn from Simple Pleasures and a signed copy going home with every seat. Drinks are handled by the property.

A 12.30pm arrival for a 1pm start, in the hinterland, at a long table. Places are limited.