Lunedì Regionale is a simple idea executed with unusual discipline: one Monday, one Italian region, and a menu that stays inside its borders. No greatest-hits cherry-picking across twenty provinces.

September belongs to the Veneto. Expect the things the region is genuinely built on rather than the ones that export well, and a wine list that follows the food north-east rather than defaulting to the usual suspects.

For anyone who works with Italian product, this series is a useful education in how much changes across a few hundred kilometres. Two more land before Christmas: Sardegna in October, Sicilia in November.