Peter Gunn built two hats at Ides on precision and a lot of moving parts. Shogunn is the opposite instinct: one man, twelve seats, a charcoal grill, ten skewers.

The set menu works the whole bird, neck with nori, thigh with green onion, skin with tobiko, meatballs with sansho, alongside miso-glazed eggplant and mushroom. The drinks list is nine items long and stops there. Japanese beer, sake, sparkling, highballs.

Friday to Sunday, two seatings a night. Gunn has said he wants to make it permanent, so this is the window where it is still officially temporary.