A Darlinghurst pasta room turns one and marks it by handing the kitchen to someone else entirely. Tipo 00 makes the trip up from Little Bourke Street, where Andreas Papadakis has spent the better part of a decade arguing that Melbourne can do Italian on its own terms rather than borrowing someone else's.

Giorgio de Maria pours. Anyone tracking the wine side of Australian Italian dining will know the name, the same importer turns up behind two other collaborations on this list within a fortnight, which tells you something about who is actually moving this scene around the country.

The ticketed part is a three-hour lunch. At 3pm it spills onto Liverpool Street as an open block party, no booking required, which is a nice piece of planning for anyone who misses a seat.